"New" Driveshaft

I was sorting through my parts pile and found two drive shafts.  Both are the flange yoke type and are a few inches too short for my application.   My setup is a Ford 9 inch and new Tremmec T-5 with 26 spline output.  The rear yoke is a 1330 with 3 5/8" width and 1 1/8" caps.   The cap to cap length is about 47".    I looked around locally and found a place that would make a new steel shaft but I was a little skeptical about their quality so I looked online.  I found a few shops that do custom shafts and settled on Denny's Driveshaft.  They had a sale on for $299 for a custom "street rod" shaft with 1330 rear joint so I went for it.  Three weeks later shaft arrived in a well padded box and I quickly unpacked it for installation.   The shaft looked well made and welds look good.  

I have to say I was a little disappointed in the transmission slip yoke that Denny's Driveshaft used.  It appears to be a used yoke that was refurbished.  It has the look of having a lot of pitting or galling still left after being polished down.   Its smooth and groove free so I guess it doesn't really matter but I was expecting all new parts.  

Looking at the site, it doesn't actually say "all new parts" so I guess I cant complain.  I will always ask from now, that's for sure!  Hopefully, the u joints are new. They do feel new and stiff though. 

One positive is that it came with new u bolts. Everything installed well and seems to fit perfectly so I'm happy.

Rear Disc Brakes Install

After a long summer of projects around the house and vacation, I finally found time to take another step forward on this Mustang project.  I had ordered a complete rear disc brake conversion kit for Ford 9".  This kit included (and this may frighten the purists) GM calipers with brake levers and GM universal rotors, brackets, hydraulic hoses, parking brake cables, and some necessary hardware. Why do they use GM parts?  Probably due to low cost and high availability and readily adaptable design.   

The first step is to remove the bolts that hold axle retaining plate and pull the axle.  The axles need to be removed so that the old drum brake backing plate can be removed.  The kit provides a new spacer plate that is the same thickness as the drum plate so that the caliper bracket can sit flush to the rear housing and not against the bearing. It just slips over the bearings like the drum backing plate so no pressing is needed.  If they just machined a recess into the mounting plates, a spacer would not be needed. Probably costs less this way.
The next step is to replace the wheel studs.  This is not required by the kit but is needed for my application since I'm not using the stock steel wheels.  This should be required since you need larger diameter wheels to clear the calipers anyway and they tend to be thicker alloy wheels - YMMV.  I used Moser Engineering 8250 Torino/Lincoln wheel studs.  Stock is 1.5", these are about 2" and thats just enough for my application.

Next step is to reinstall the axles and mount the caliper bracket adapter plates to the housing.  The plates are held in place by the axle retainer bolts and I used slightly longer grade 8 bolts since the brackets add thickness.  The stock ones are supposedly long enough but in my case they were replaced long ago with grade 5. Since brakes are involved, I'm not willing to compromise.   Then the caliper bracket plates are bolted to the adapters.   

After that, the rotors are mounted.   The instructions say that some axle flanges may have a larger diameter and need to be machined down for the rotor to fit correctly.  Luckily mine were ok.   Finally, the calipers were installed using the supplied bolts.    
Once I find the stock parking brake parts, I can begin that install along with the brake lines.
Stay tuned....

It Runs - Fuel System Part 2

Now, determined to get my Mustang started, I ordered a new in tank pump and a new in tank pickup tube.  Other than the crappy Ron Morris 'Sending Unit' , I had not seen anything that would be plug-n-play with my 65 Mustang fuel tank so I need to make something.  Looking at the online auto part sites, I found a perfect pickup tube from AdvanceAutoparts.com part #FG30B for a 93 Mustang for $89.99 and it even has the fuel pump plug and leads.  Its also has a 3/8" tube.  This 'hangar' is actually a 2 piece unit, held together with 4 screws.  I could also cut and weld if needed.   Next I got a Walbro electric fuel pump part# GSS307, a 255 lph in tank pump.  It comes with a pigtail plug and small hose, clamps, and a strainer.

I started my custom setup by unscrewing the bottom half of the hangar and attaching it flipped around in the opposite direction and the small tabs bent out of the way.  I used 2 #8-32 screws and nylock nuts so the bottom section could swing freely.  The outer cover fits only one way so I had to make sure I could get the angle of the whole assembly correct and match the approximate angle of the original sender unit and still be able to let it flex.  

Next, I installed the pump into the bracket. It is held in place by the strainer and a zip tie. I also added a couple of wide rubber bands to the pump for extra noise isolation.  I also cut off the end of the return line above the elbow since it interfered with the pump.  I then cut the pre-bent hose that came with the pump so that it was just a single curve that was long enough to allow the assembly to flex enough installation. This must be EFI rated fuel hose. I also soldered the wires from the pump to the hanger plug and covered with shrink tube.  The pump bracket is clocked a little from vertical but not enough to be a problem since the bracket flexes toward the bottom.   

To install the new pump unit into the tank, it must be folded a little to fit through the hole then once in the tank, allowed to straighten and drop to the bottom.  The cover plate is exactly the same as the 65 unit so it fits right in. 
The only catch is that it uses a funky connector so I had to order a 93 Mustang fuel sender plug from CJ Pony Parts #HW2606.




With the pump installed and plumbed there's nothing left except to start it up.

Shocking Wiring and Fuel Fouled Up

I'v gotten a lot of engine compartment work completed.  The power wiring is nearly complete and I just need to get the looms in and tidy up a little.   The battery is located in the right side of the trunk and the power is routed to the front using a Moroso 2Ga cable passing over the right side wheel house, along the edge of the floor and through a grommet  in the fire wall then along the frame rail to the former battery location. The cable connects to a lug on the starter solenoid and every thing that needs 12v is connected to that same lug. The engine and starter are grounded to the body via a short 1Ga wire I got from my brother-in-law.

The new fuel system is composed of 3/8 steel tubing, an in-line fuel pump, and a fuel filter.  The fuel pump is Professional Products 220 LPH EFI fuel pump #70151.   I also have a new Ron Morris efi conversion pickup tube and sender for the 65's tank.   
I hand bent the feed and return lines and connected them to the filter and pump, then connected the pump to the tank with efi fuel hose.   The front side connections were through another efi fuel hose to a spring lock fitting to the stock fuel rail.   I then wired the pump to the pink wire from the RJM wiring harness for power and a short wire to body ground.   To prime the system, I jumpered the eec test connector which switches the relay on.  Hmmm, pump is running but no fuel is coming out of the hose at the rail.  After some trouble shooting, it turns out that the Professional Products pump cannot pull the fuel up and out of the tank, even though the pump is a little below the tank.   I think I will need a normal in-tank pump -- even a stock pump will work.  Stock was fine for my old 300+ hp blown set up so it should be fine here. ..To be continued...
A note about the Ron Morris pickup tube.  During installation, the return fuel line tube fell out in my hand.  It seems that the soldering was really bad and probably would have leaked all over if it hadn't fallen out.  Should have returned it but I just tried to sand the pipe for soldering with enough solder to hold it tight and seal it -- but that didn't hold.  Bottom line : DO NOT BUY A RON MORRIS RMP 9112 SENDING UNIT !!! THE TUBES WILL FALL OUT AND IT WILL LEAK FUEL. IF YOU HAVE ONE SEND IT BACK TO CHINA.

Installing a TFI Distributor in 5.0 Mustang

For those who don't know how to install and line up a distributor, here is one way to do it.
First make a highly visible mark on your damper at 10 degrees.  It will help you line up the marks and makes it easier to see when setting the timing.  Mine has a mark at 0 and 10 since the mark may be out of view when I'm using the timing light.

Next, using a breaker bar or big ratchet on the center bolt on the damper, turn the crank clockwise until the #1 piston is moving upward for the compression stroke. This is much easier to do with the spark plugs removed.  
You have to determine when the #1 cylinder compression stroke is about to happen. This can be done a few ways.  One way is with the passenger side valve cover removed, turn the crank until the front most intake valve opens then closes -- that will be the start of the compression stroke. On my engine, the headers are not installed yet so I used the #1 exhaust valve closing event as the start of the intake stroke and turned the crank until the timing marks came back around.
Start turning the crank clockwise slowly, when the piston nearly reaches the top, you should see the timing marks approaching the pointer. Carefully, bump the crank clockwise until the 10 degree BTC mark is lined up with the pointer.  If you go past to 0 remember to reverse past 10 degrees because of minor slop in the timing chain, then come back to 10.

Now, figure out how you want the distributor clocked.  On mine, I wanted the TFI plug turned so it points toward the power steering pump or AC compressor. This will leave enough room to adjust timing + or -. Then, with the rotor installed, line up the rotor tip close to the #1 wire.  This is marked in the top of the distributor cap. I usually mark the distributor where #1 is lined up with the cap.  Next, turn the rotor to a point just past the #1 mark counter-clockwise.  Drop the distributor in the bore and wiggle it to line up with the oil pump drive shaft.  The rotor will move clockwise toward your #1 mark as the helical drive gears mesh on the way down.  Once all the way home look at the rotor tip alignment.  If it doesnt point at your mark, try moving the body a little. If there is not enough room left for adjusting the timing then pull it back out and drop it in again with the rotor slightly repositioned until it lines up.  Install the distrib hold down loosely.
If you get this lined up right, it should start and idle on the first try.   Remove the pip jumper plug and hook up a timing light and set to exactly 10 degrees.  Dont forget to replace the pip jumper after and tighten the hold down bolt.

5.0 Engine Installation

Since the weather has improved,  I have been itching to get some Mustang work done -- actually, the nice weather inspires be to go for a ride in my 65 Mustang but it needs a little work before I can drive it.

I stopped by Quality Rental in Carmel on the way home from work and picked up the hoist and got to work upon arriving home. 

 The first order of business was to cut the hole for the RJM Injection Tech EFI harness while the engine was out of the way.   This needs to be an oval hole 1.5" x 3" to fit the rubber grommet supplied by RJM.  It was simple to do by marking the 2 center points 1.5" apart, drilling, then trimming the triangular 

pieces to complete the oval.   I chose the location so that the harness would be less prominent based on what Brad suggested.

EDIT: The hole actually cannot be in the middle.  My harness from RJM Injection is well wrapped and branches off to either side of the intake in precise locations.  I could probably re-wrap the harness but they did a nice job wrapping and it would be easier to redo the hole where the instructions say.  

Next, I installed the used bell housing to my new Tremmec super heavy-duty T-5. Here are the specs for this tranny:

Ford Racing Super Heavy-Duty "World Class" T-5 5-speed Transmission.
Features double-moly 2nd, 3rd and countershaft cluster gears, carbon-fiber 3-4 blocker rings, 1-1/16" diameter 10-tooth input spline, 28-tooth output spline and Cobra style pocket bearing. Rated for 330 ft-lbs. torque. Fill with Mercon/Dextron ATF.
Ratios: 1st - 2.95, 2nd - 1.94, 3rd - 1.34, 4th - 1.00, and 5th - 0.63.

I hooked up the hoist and engine tilter to the engine and removed it from the stand.
After that, I bolted on the new pressure plate and clutch disc.  Nothing special here, just the basic stock replacement parts.  The stock t-5 and clutch survived more than 10 years in my 93 Fox Mustang -- and that was supercharged and dyno'ed at 320 horses at the wheels. I also raced it quite often and only the part I had to replace was the thow-out bearing after 103000 miles.
With the clutch ready to go, I tilted the engine to line up with the tranny and bolted together.   Tip: using the clutch alignment tool to get an idea of the rotation of the clutch disc splines and rotate the transmission's input shaft's splines to match. Everything slips together with very little effort.   Also, apply some anti-seize lube to the engine's bell alignment pins.  I found that this helps installation and, years later, removal.
I highly recommend using an engine tilter especially when the tranny is attached.  I've installed engines lots of times in the past without one and it was a real pain having to unbolt and reposition the chain to the right angle.  Using the tilter to get the right angle is just a matter of buzzing it with the impact gun.

The engine basically just dropped right in and with the engine mounts supplied by Total Cost Involved, it was a snap to line up.  The extra space left after removal of the shock towers helped a lot too.   I could almost stand in the engine bay with the engine if needed. I should be able to bolt in pretty much any exhaust header without clearance issues.  

Here are some of the torque specs and bolts I used:
Transmission to bellhousing  - 30 ft-lbs w/ Loctite
Pressure plate bolts              - 25 ft-lbs w/ Loctite
Bell to Engine                       - 30 ft-lbs
Bell to Engine bolts were 7/16" coarse - grade 8
Tranny to bell were M12 x 1.5 - grade 8

Out of the stable

The weekend's weather was nice enough to do some work outside so I thought I'd give this 65 Mustang some fresh air.  I managed to accomplish some work too.  The old door mechanicals were removed and will be residing in their new doors soon. The doors I had are just too far gone to warrant repairs.  The interior side on one door is rusted out and slathered with Bondo (not a good look) and the other door also rusted out and is bent where the hinge mounts are -- looks like its Ivy Green donor was in an accident. Incidentally, mine was originally Silver Blue
The picture shows what the ride height will be like at the front end. Pretty low already and the engine is not even installed yet. The coilovers are pretty stiff. Also, with the 96 Mustang 17" Cobra wheels mounted, theres not a whole lot of clearance but there is no contact without rolling the fenders. The tires are 245 45 17 in case you're wondering.
Kinda looks like crazy old-school rake is going on (not my taste) but its just that the rear has new springs and it sits really high with only the 100 pounds weight on it. 
The engine and T-5 transmission go in next.

On 4 wheels

For the first time since I owned the car, it is resting on its own four wheels and a suspension.  It sounds like an insignificant moment but to me its very encouraging.  This 65 mustang can now be endowed with its drive train and eventually move under its own power and the thought of that makes want to get out there and turn wrenches to hasten that moment's arrival.  

Front Suspension - Completed

To complete the install of the Total Cost Involved front end, I primed and painted the Mustang's frame and cross member parts and control arms and got the fasteners organized.   

I started the installation with the lower control arms and coil-over shocks.  This was extremely easy.  Its just a matter of bolting the parts in place.  No adjustments needed.  Next came the upper control arms.  This was also simple but required some thick washers to be added for setting the initial camber.   

This step was followed by installing the pre-assembled spindles.  When I ordered the front end kit from the dealer, Ryan at Stang-Aholics, I opted for the basic disc and caliper and it comes ready to install with bearings packed and calipers and pads already in place.  

After that, I installed the power steering rack.  The rack needs to be steered to the center point on the range so that the steering wheel will be centered. At this point I set the toe-in to roughly 1/8" at the rotors and spun the tie-rod ends on to equal turns and attached them to the spindles.

Lastly, I installed the sway bar.  I decided to leave it a steel finish and clear coat it.   

Finally, the suspension install is complete and ready for the engine and wheels.  Just in time since I need to push the car out of the garage to do some electrical work on the house.

Next, after painting the firewall and the rest of the floor underneath, I will be installing the RJM Injection EFI harness and the ECU.

Sway bar mount

The old strut rod mount and sway bar bracket had to be removed and the new sway bar mount installed in its place.  This requires drilling out 13 or 14 spot welds on each mount/bracket and separating the parts from the frame.  Sounds easy but if you dont cut all of the welds or miss a little bit, the task is a real knuckle buster.  I did eventually get the old parts off but not without cutting the parts a little to make the job easier. 

The new Total Cost Involved sway bar brackets were pretty easy to install.  I just cleaned up the area with the grinder, clamped it in place and welded.  Welding was easier since I only had to attach the 3/16" thick bracket to thick sheet metal frame rail.

While the primer was drying, I finished installing the rear end.  Always nice to see some more parts installed.  Its starting to look like a car and will be on four wheels soon. 

Next: Front Suspension Completed

Front Suspension 7

I was unpacking the box with the power steering rack and came across some parts that I didn't realize that I had.   A new sway bar and its mounting hardware.  I was going to install one as a later upgrade but of course I'll mount that puppy now.   This means removing the old sway bar mounts and strut rod mounts and installing the Total Cost Involved sway bar brackets

... And I thought I was done welding.

Next: Sway Bar Mount

Front Suspension 6

Once everything was plumb and square, I completely welded around the cross member's contact points. After a finish grinding I was ready to install the A-arm/shock towers.

The A-arm/shock tower is bolted in place using the alignment hole and clamped against the frame rail for tack welding.  After clamping, I noticed that the tower was not square to the frame rail and cross member so I had to add a thin shim between the frame rail and the tower.  Once lined up right, I tacked it in place and removed the clamps.

The final welds were done with my Millermatic 140 MIG welder cranked up to 100 and wire speed at 67. I could have definitely used a little more power but I was able to accomplish it with more than one pass in some places.

The front end welding is finally complete! If I was impatient I would start bolting parts on now but I think I'll resist the temptation.


  Any suggestions?

Next: Front Suspension Part 7

Front Suspension 5

With the .030 MIG wire replenished and a fresh Argon/CO2 fill up,  I completed the frame rail boxing and was ready to install the new cross member. This is where the more "funner" installation of new parts begins.

The Total Cost Involved 1965 Mustang coilover suspension comes with a new heavy-duty cross member frame piece with the motor mount ears, lower control arm mounts, and power steering rack mounts in place. Installation is just a matter of slipping the cross member in from underneath, up against the locating plates and carefully welding around the contact points.  

In reality though, it didn't go as smooth as that.  The instructions say that the ends of the crossmember may need to be trimmed to fit.  My reinforced frame rail spacing is 27 1/4" and the crossmember is 27 3/8th " so I had to trim about 1/6th inch off each end.  This was easy to do once marked up and attacked with a grinder.   

Once the grinding was done, the dimensions were equal so it took a little pounding to get it in place and ready to weld.

Total Cost Involved crossmember in place with new A-arm shock tower piece.

The critical alignment points are at the locating plates and the crossmember faces must be square to the frame rails.

Next: Front Suspension Part 6